Jamdani weaves are a beautiful amalgamation of meticulous craftsmanship and the rich textile traditions of old, undivided Bengal in the Indian subcontinent. Woven in the Gangetic floodplains of West Bengal and Dhaka (or Dacca) in Bangladesh, it is also known as Dhakai (or Daccai) or Dhakai Jamdani. This incredibly lightweight and breathable textile is decorated with floral motifs handwoven into the finest quality cotton, known as muslin. These beautiful, summer-friendly weaves were highly adored by the Mughals and were referred to as "jamdani" in Persian, where ‘jam’ means floral and ‘dani’ means a vase or container, referring to the floral patterns that characterize this fabric. Later, at the end of the 19th century, Trailokyanath Mukhopadhyay, also known as T. N. Mukharji, who served as the curator of the Indian Museum in Kolkata, referred to the fabric as ‘Jamdani muslin.’
Jamdani weaving is a refined supplementary weft technique, akin to tapestry work. In this method, the standard weft forms the base fabric, while supplementary weft threads create intricate patterns. These additional weft threads are interlaced with the warp by hand, using fine bamboo sticks, making each pattern appear seamlessly integrated. This intricate process makes the motifs seem as though they are floating within the fabric, rather than merely being overlaid. This labor-intensive and time-consuming process contributes to the complexity and sophistication of Jamdani weaving. Designs are guided either by patterns on paper placed under the warps or by verbal instructions from the ustad (master) to the shagird (apprentice), resulting in seamless and stunning designs.
Jamdani weavers create motifs directly on the loom by counting the warp and weft threads, without mechanical aids. This results in patterns that often exhibit a geometric or symmetrical nature. The motifs in Jamdani sarees are not merely decorative; they hold cultural and historical significance, making each saree a unique artistic creation. One of the most renowned Jamdani sarees is the ‘Hazar Buti Jamdani,’ which translates to ‘A Thousand Motifs.’ This intricate weave features small floral patterns, creating a captivating visual effect filled with beauty and complexity. Some of the most iconic Jamdani motifs include buta or paisley, flowers, polka dots, jhalar (a border or network of motifs), the complex jaal pattern that covers the entire ground, terchi (diagonally laid-out patterns), charkona (rectangular motifs), panna hajar (thousand emeralds), and butidar (a scattered pattern featuring floral and tendril motifs rather than a dense arrangement).
While Jamdani originally consisted of cotton muslin weaves, ideal for everyday wear, it has since incorporated silk threads to add a touch of luxury. This includes half-silk sarees with a cotton warp and silk wefts, as well as pure silk sarees with both warp and weft made of silk, often embellished with silver or gold threads for added variation. Although primarily used for sarees, Jamdani is also made into scarves and handkerchiefs. Initially, Jamdani weaves were predominantly in white or subdued colors, but now they feature a broad spectrum of vibrant and colorful patterns.
Jamdani sarees come in various styles, each with its unique attributes. The Dhakai Jamdani is known for its exceptional quality and intricate patterns, while the Khadi Jamdani is appreciated for its textured, organic feel. The Bengali Jamdani saree is celebrated for its elegant drape and traditional charm, making it a popular choice for special events and cultural occasions. These sarees tend to be more expensive due to the labor-intensive weaving process, the intricacy of the motifs, and the use of premium materials such as fine cotton and silk. Hand-woven Jamdani sarees use finer threads (32-250 counts approx.) and are valued for their delicate craftsmanship. In contrast, machine-woven sarees use coarse threads (24-40 counts approx.), are less detailed, made from synthetic yarn, and tend to be heavier and rougher, resulting in a lower price.
Since old times, South Rupshi, or Jamdani village, in the Narayanganj district of Bangladesh along the Shitalakshya River, has been renowned for its elaborate Jamdani textiles, with the creation of these intricate designs often taking several months to a year. Plain muslins are woven in the Tangail district, north of Dhaka, which is also known for its distinctive Tangail sarees. In addition to Bangladesh, Indian states such as West Bengal, Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra, Rajasthan, and Uttar Pradesh have developed their own versions of Jamdani sarees, each incorporating unique cultural elements to create distinct styles.
In West Bengal, the Nadia district's Shantipur and Phulia are prominent handloom centers. Shantipur is known for its GI-tagged Shantipuri cotton sarees, while Phulia is renowned for Tangail sarees, which have earned geographical indication rights as "Tangail Sarees of Bengal." Another Jamdani weaving hub in West Bengal is Dhaniakhali village in the Hooghly district, famous for Dhaniakhali sarees.
In the 18th century, the Jamdani technique reached the village of Uppada in the East Godavari district of Andhra Pradesh, where it was adapted with a local style to create Uppada Jamdani sarees. These lightweight silk sarees gained recognition in 1972 when Uppada weavers received the President's Award from the Government of India, and they were later registered as a geographical indication under the GI Act, 1999.
From 1850 onwards, Uttar Pradesh became another important center for Jamdani weaving, particularly in Tanda in the Faizabad district (now Ayodhya) and Banaras. Tanda produced fine white-on-white Jamdani textiles, with thicker threads used to create opaque designs on a transparent background. The delicate Tanda cloths are distinguished by their use of only white yarn for patterning.
Jamdani weaving is a time-honored cottage industry in Bangladesh, deeply rooted in Bengali tradition. However, the industry declined due to several factors, that include the fall of Mughal patronage and, from the mid-19th century, the import of lower-quality, cheaper European yarn by the British. Villages like Madhurapur and Jangalbari, once prominent in Jamdani weaving, fell into decline, further exacerbated by the partition of India and the Bangladesh Liberation War, which led to the loss of wealthy patrons.
Since the 1980s, Jamdani production has seen a revival in Bangladesh and India due to various initiatives. This resurgence has led to a significant increase in demand for quality Jamdani sarees, not only in Bangladesh but also in India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, England, and the USA. Efforts have been made to ensure fair wages for weavers to support and preserve this rich craft. In 2013, Jamdani weaving was recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, and in 2016, Bangladesh earned Geographical Indication (GI) status for Jamdani sarees. The Government of India also honored master weaver Biren Kumar Basak from West Bengal with the Padma Shri award for his contributions to Jamdani craftsmanship, boosting artisans' morale. Additionally, government support has included better credit facilities, increased income opportunities, marketing assistance, and efforts to minimize intermediaries. Exhibitions, local markets (haats), and contemporary fashion brands are revitalizing the Jamdani market with new designs that cater to urban and upscale consumers. The tradition of Jamdani weaving, passed down through generations, continues to thrive and evolve while preserving its rich heritage.
Image Credits: Weavers weaving Jamdani sarees at Jamdani Palli, Narayanganj, Bangladesh | CC BY-SA 4.0
