Muslin

Muslin, often described as light and soft as a gentle breeze, is a fine, lightweight, and breathable cotton fabric that is perfect for the tropical Indian summers. Poetic names such as Shabnam ('evening dew'), Āb-i-ravān ('flowing water'), and Baft Hawa ('woven air') reflect its exquisitely delicate texture and gently translucent quality, giving the fabric an almost ethereal charm. In his 1298 book The Travels, Marco Polo mentioned that this fabric was made in Mosul, Iraq—leading to the name "muslin." However, it is now understood that true muslin originates from Dhaka in Bangladesh and West Bengal in India. Crafted from the long-staple cotton species Gossypium herbaceum (also known as Phuti karpas), it is cultivated along the banks of the Meghna River, southeast of Dhaka.

Muslin production is a complex, labor-intensive process that involves community collaboration. Expert Hindu women tightly spin the yarns with precision, while skilled Muslim artisans meticulously weave this delicate fabric. Traditionally, weaving took place during the rainy season to take advantage of the increased humidity, which enhanced the yarn's elasticity and helped prevent breakages. Muslin is woven using a simple, plain weave, with each weft thread alternating over and under a single warp thread, creating its signature feather-light texture. While muslin is often appreciated for its simplicity, it can also be embroidered or printed for decoration, featuring subtle designs that enhance its lightweight nature. Notably, high-quality muslin is woven from evenly spun yarns, which give it a soft, smooth finish. In contrast, coarser varieties are made from irregular yarns and have lower thread counts.

Historically, muslin was a symbol of luxury, adorning Mughal emperors and being cherished as a highly prized gift for the Tomb of Prophet Muhammad in Medina. In the UK, muslin revolutionized aristocratic fashion, replacing the rigid dresses of the Georgian era. Its elegance garnered worldwide admiration, making it popular across Europe and beyond, with significant exports to France, the UK, Greece, Rome, and other regions. During this time, the Bengal region was the foremost exporter of muslin, with Dhaka serving as its capital.

By the early 20th century, Dhaka muslin had vanished due to the exploitation of the muslin-producing community by the British East India Company. The Company forced weavers to produce more at lower costs, ultimately leading to the collapse of the industry. Despite the loss of production techniques and the extinction of the Phuti karpas cotton species, Dhaka muslin's legacy endures through surviving examples preserved in museums and occasionally auctioned at high values.

In recognition of its cultural importance, Dhakai Muslin was designated as a Geographical Indication (GI) product of Bangladesh in 2018. In 2024, Banglar Muslin (Bengal Muslin) also received GI status in the Indian state of West Bengal, further preserving its authenticity.

Muslin comes in a variety of forms and weights, ranging from ultralight gauze, used for dressing wounds or as a filter in the kitchen, to a soft, thin, and semi-transparent muslin called mull, usually made from cotton and silk. Mull is used for dress underlining, to add weight and structure to a garment, or as a pattern testing garment. Sheer and lightweight Swiss mull, often finished with stiffening agents and featuring raised patterns or dots, is frequently used for warm-weather clothing. At the other end of the spectrum is muslin sheeting, the thickest and coarsest form, commonly used for clothing and homewares. Mulmul is an exceptionally fine, soft, smooth, and expensive type of muslin, often described as being as soft as butter. The term "Mulmul" comes from the Persian word for soft. Historically produced in regions like Dhaka (in present-day Bangladesh), Mulmul was renowned during the Mughal era for its exquisite quality and exclusivity, often reserved for the royal class.

Muslin is a versatile fabric used for various purposes, including clothing, particularly in hot climates, as well as home textiles like curtains and drapes. It finds applications in both traditional and modern fashion, as well as in artisanal textiles. Designers frequently use muslin to test new patterns in sewing, while quilters employ it as backing material. In the arts, muslin is valued for its ability to hold dye, making it ideal for theater backdrops, scrims, and portable seamless backdrops for photography. It also plays a role in cheesemaking, where it helps separate curds from whey, and in surgery, where it is used to reinforce arteries around aneurysms. Traditionally, premium muslins were used to make saris and jamas—tunic-like garments worn by men. Today, muslin is commissioned by both national and international designers, reflecting its enduring appeal and multifunctionality.

Image Credits: 'Phuti Karpas' – Cotton variant Gossypium arboreum | CC BY-SA 3.0