Appliqué is a post-loom decorative patchwork technique to embellish textiles after they are woven. The word appliqué is derived from a French word appliquer, which means 'to put on', or 'apply'. The process involves patches of fabric of varying shapes, sizes, colors and designs to be laid over a larger fabric, and then the edges of the patches are sewn together to create elaborate and vibrant patterns; using simple straight stitch or satin or whip or blanket stitch, etc.
Reverse appliqué is another method of creating layered design wherein the layers of fabric are attached together and then the top fabric layer is cut out to reveal the bottom layer and the edges are stitched so that it doesn’t fray.
Earlier appliqué was used to fix worn out and ripped clothes, and hence was called as patchwork. But soon it got accepted into the fashion alleys owing to its scope in making rich and colorful patterns and designs. The popular motifs used in appliqué are indigenous birds, flowers, trees, geometric and human figures, and the local mythological stories and traditions.
In India, women have played a very significant role in keeping the tradition of appliqué alive by passing on the skill from one generation to the next, and teaching the distinct set of designs, colors and range of stitches that form the visual and cultural identity of the respective caste and community they belong to.
In western India, appliqué (also called as katab) is mainly practiced in Kutch, Bhavnagar and Ahmedabad districts of Gujarat; whereas in Rajasthan, Barmer and Jaisalmer are the main appliqué centres. It is also made around Patna in Bihar (called as khatwa); Pipili in Odisha and in Thanjavur and Madurai in Tamil Nadu.
Pipili is a small town in Puri district of Odisha, which is now globally known for its colorful appliqué work. Vibrant appliquéd banners and canopies are made as an offering to Lord Jagannath Temple deities and for Rath Yatra processions. Similarly in Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu, cylindrical-shaped colorful appliquéd hangings called thombai are made for temple carts that are used in Chariot festivals. Nowadays, smaller canopies are also made for home temples.
With changing times, the scope of appliqué has increased from apparels, banners, canopies, saddle-cloths and quilts to bags, garden umbrellas, tapestry, home decor, cushions, bed covers and other household linen products, often with added embellishments like mirrors, sequins, tassels, buttons and shells.
Gota Patti from Rajasthan and Phool Patti Ka Kaam from Aligarh and Rampur in Uttar Pradesh, are other interesting forms of appliqué embroidery which are popular all over India for their splendid look.
