Chanderi Weaves

A graceful blend of silk and cotton interspersed with silver and golden zari, celebrated for its soft tones, muted translucent sheen, and breathable lightweight texture!

Chanderi is a small town in the Ashok Nagar district of Madhya Pradesh, renowned for its finely crafted Chanderi sarees, handwoven by the Koli weavers who have been practicing the craft since the 13th century and have perfected it over generations. Historically, this weaving tradition has received admiration and support from the Mughals, Rajputs, and later from the royal Scindia family.

Initially, Chanderi weaving utilized only cotton yarn, which was ideal for daily wear in hot summers. Later, the incorporation of silver and golden zari threads for borders and motifs added a touch of opulence, enhancing the aesthetic appeal of the sarees. In the 1930s, the introduction of Japanese silk to replace cotton warps transformed Chanderi weaving, resulting in the creation of the distinctive fabric we recognize today. Notably, Chanderi weavers used raw silk that does not undergo the degumming process (known as flature yarn), retaining the raw glue. This method prevents yarn breakage during weaving and imparts Chanderi with its unique sheen and texture.

Currently, Chanderi manufacturing units and cooperatives source cotton yarn from Coimbatore, Bombay, and Ahmedabad, and silk from Bangalore or imports from China, Japan, and Korea. While Chanderi fabrics once featured pure gold and silver zari, today, high-quality tested zari from Surat is used to embellish the textiles. Commonly woven motifs include peacocks, lotuses, swans, flowers, antique coins, bundaki (dots), keri (mango), phool patti (flower with leaves), zhaad (tree), akhrot (walnut), and various geometric patterns.

For several decades, the Scindia family has played a crucial role in preserving Chanderi’s weaving heritage. Their recent contributions include renovating Raja Rani Mahal to serve as a vibrant hub for the weaver community. Through the Chanderiyaan project, they have also brought together prominent Indian designers to modernize this traditional weave for contemporary fashion and home décor. 

Thus, Chanderi continues to thrive, attracting designers from around the world to incorporate this timeless beauty into their high-fashion ensembles. 

To this day, the exquisite craftsmanship of Chanderi weavers remains unmatched by modern power looms. Consequently, the Government of India has protected handwoven Chanderi sarees under the GI Act of 1999 for their unique designs and special silk yarns, which cannot be replicated. India has also sought international recognition for Chanderi as a GI product from the World Trade Organization.

Image Credits: Woman Weaver at Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh | CC BY 2.0