Kashmiri Aari Embroidery

Aari embroidery is one of the oldest embroidery technique practised in India, mainly in Kashmir and Kutch region in Gujarat. In Kashmir, it is more commonly known as kashidakari or kashmiri zalakdozi (zalakdozi means 'chain stitch' in local language).

Inspired by the lovely seasonal hues, beautiful natural surroundings and the local flora and fauna, together with native artisans' exceptional understanding of blending colors together, makes this Kashmiri craft rightfully popular all across the globe!

This craft form is mainly practiced by Kashmiri men, and it is done on a range of fabrics including wool, silk, cotton, velvet, linen, etc., using a crochet like needle called aari, which has a hook at one end. This hook is inserted down through the fabric and it is fed by a thread from underneath. The hook then pulls up the thread onto the top of the fabric to create loops one after the other, each rising from the previous one in succession, to create a chain of stitches. It is typically done on woollen shawls, stoles, pherans, coats and jackets.

Another variant of aari embroidery is crewel embroidery, which uses the same aari technique except that the crewel needle is much thicker and thus uses thicker threads of silk or wool, to give more embossed feel to the fabric. Crewel embroidery is usually done on rugs, lampshades, wall-hangings, bags, clutches, cushion covers, bed covers, curtains and other home furnishing fabrics.

The beautiful spread of rose flowers and paisleys, intertwined grapevines, butterflies, colorful birds, tree of life, chinar leaf and cypress cone, are the most preferred motifs and patterns that the artisans use to embellish Kashmiri textiles.


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